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By Chris “Slickbald” Andre
Growing up in a small home on five acres of land, far from the road and a bit isolated, Chris “Slickbald” Andre was destined for creativity. It didn’t hurt that his mother had a box of Tandy tools and began doodling with patterns from Make it with Leather Doodle Pages to pass the time. Being a curious boy, Chris wanted to make something, too.
Around the age of nine he attended 4-H, where he worked on leathercraft projects. His success at county and state fairs motivated him to continue. As he got older, he started creating out of necessity. He made a cue case, weight belt and gifts for relatives. It was during this time that Chris dreamed of becoming a full-time leather craftsman.
At age 13, Chris joined a smallbore rifle team. This kindled his love for shooting, so in 1985, it came as no surprise when he joined the United States Marines and became a marksmanship instructor. “This was my first teaching gig,” remembers Chris. After serving in Desert Shield and Desert Storm as a Sergeant of Marines, he was honorably discharged in 1991.
“At the ripe old age of 32, I realized I was going “horseshoe bald.” I didn’t like paying full price for half a haircut, so off it came!” laughs Chris. Slick bald is an official haircut in the USMC regulations. He simply combined this into one word and Slickbald was born. With support from his wife, Terri, Chris set out to open his own leather business; and in 2002, filed documents for Hedonistic Developments LLC, dba Slickbald Customs.
Up to this point Chris was completely self-taught. He was unaware of the resources available to help propel his career to the next level, until he discovered his family friend Dusty Johnson, who was a farrier and silversmith, was also a saddle maker. In December 2008, he was able to attend his saddle school.
His learning didn’t stop there. For the next few years Chris attended industry trade shows where he was able to learn from the masters. In the fall of 2011, he attended Jesse Smith’s Western Floral Carving class. “Working one-on-one with Jesse truly changed my leather life,” said Chris. One day he learned the Porter carving style, the next Visalia, then Sheridan, Northwest and Al Shelton. “I learned the differences, the ‘rules’ and a bit how to break them. It was a turning point for my carving,” Chris stated.
While attending industry trade shows, he realized a lack of holster making supplies, so he decided to open Maker’s Leather Supply (MLS). MLS was a distributor of Rings Blue Guns. Using his previous experience in custom engineering shops and ability to write training materials, he published 14 instructional pattern packs and kits for holsters and sheaths to sell. Chris began attending every trade show he could to promote the business and, fortunately, it was very well received.
Chris’ natural ability in the leathercraft industry started attracting attention. He was creating instructional pattern packs, writing articles for Leather Crafters & Saddlers Journal, winning industry contests, teaching classes and running a successful holster supply company. “I had a lot of irons in the fire, something had to give,” said Chris. In 2014, he decided to sell Maker’s Leather Supply.
Chris found himself with more time to do what he really loved – teach. He now travels all over the world, sharing the knowledge he has learned through the years with others hungry to learn the art of leathercrafting.
“I am mostly self-taught. I struggled with a lack of knowledge and resources…and written instructions were not for me. I struggled, would stop, start up and struggle some more. Having since found a path to knowledge, I feel compelled to share anything I can to help others not struggle with something they love. If I can make the light come on, it makes me happy.”
Slickbald Custom
slickbald.com
Slickbald@Slickbald.com
The Alhambra is an ancient palace and fortress complex in Munira Mendonça’s hometown of Granada, Andalusia, Spain. It is one of the country’s major tourist attractions, exhibiting some of the most significant and well-known Islamic architecture in the world. Munira’s Salón de los Embajadores was inspired by a repetitive panel from the Hall of Ambassadors in the Alhambra Palace.
Munira used the finest Spanish vegetable-tanned leather when creating this piece. She first drew the intricate, symmetrical design on the leather. After casing the leather, she cut the design with a swivel knife and then spent hours tooling it. Tooling is what she loves the most about a project. Lately, Munira has been experimenting with different types of dyes. The Salón de los Embajadores is embellished with both alcohol-based and acrylic dyes and paints. The detailed leather masterpiece took a few weeks to complete.
Munira Mendonça began working with leather in 1977 in Bubión, Spain. She spent four years learning leathercraft while working in the small village in the Sierra Nevada Mountains of Granada. When she left, she took with her a sound knowledge of the craft, as well as a passion and desire to learn more. Since then, her first love has always been the art of leather tooling. In 1996, Munira re-established her workshop in the lovely old city of Granada, where Moorish art, crowned by the Alhambra, pervades and acts as a heavy influence in her work. That same year, she met Diego Campos Mariscal, one of Granada’s last “leather carvers,” and she began studying the ancient traditional craft of tooled and carved leather under his guidance. Munira is both proud of and profoundly grateful for his teaching and collaboration.
Over the years, the workshop has become a family business, which designs and hand crafts its unique range of leather articles. Her study of ancient designs and calligraphies and the use of traditional tools situate her items well within the leather tradition of Spain; a rich, but dying tradition that spans many hundreds of years.
Munira now has a shop in the heart of the city center where she promotes local crafts and gives daily demonstrations. The establishment also provides the space for demonstrations from different local craftspeople. Her goal is to keep the tradition of leather carving alive in the city of Granada.
With consistency and perseverance she is renowned worldwide, with many of her articles in private collections, mosques, government buildings, restaurants, etc.
Munira Mendonça
Granada, Spain
+34 958 221 939
info@munira.net
www.munira.net
His love for learning and creativity started at home, where he was the oldest of five children who were homeschooled until high school. Spencer Burris, a Montana cowboy, gained a deep appreciation and admiration early on for the beauty that surrounds him. In his early 20s, Spencer’s fascination with leathercraft, and its traditional art form, influenced him to learn the basics. He wanted to make his own gear and tack, as well as learn to create handmade gifts for friends and family. His time spent cowboying, packing with mules and horses, in the majestic Montana landscapes; this started influencing his creativity and still does. “It is difficult to not be inspired when you are surrounded by the work of God, the Ultimate Creator,” said Spencer.
Only two short years ago, Spencer’s fiancée, Theresa, persuaded him to try leathercraft as a profession; it turned out, the gentle nudge from her has paid off. The intricately-detailed saddle bags Spencer created for his Shop Talk! showcase not only demonstrate his capability with a swivel knife…they tell his story. On each bag are scenes straight out of Spencer’s cowboy life. The right side flap pictures a wrangler, chasing down runaway horses under wisps of clouds and is a tribute to none other than the great Al Stohlman. The left flap illustrates a cowboy who has just roped a calf, a good indication that he is about to doctor the young cow. Three horses graze across the yoke and under each flap are surprises, a cowboy holding tight to the reins as his horse takes to bucking and a cowboy roping a calf; both are representations of the kinds of surprises that occur daily in the life of a true cowboy. Beautiful floral tooling surrounds each scene and all straps are finished off with Mincer Silversmith buckles and conchos. The entire project was hand stitched and made with Hermann Oak Leather.
“One reason I enjoy working with leather so much is because I can make something useful that also has artistic qualities; it doesn’t just hang on the wall either,” said Spencer. “I believe it is important to keep western traditions alive, along with this way of life. I try to do my part by creating quality pieces of functional art that will last for generations.”
S.G. Burris Custom Leather
Whitefish, Montana
406.261.7730
sgburrisleather@gmail.com
etsy.com/shop/sgburrisleather
@sgburrisleather
Photographs Courtesy of S.G. Burris Custom Leather
According to folklore, the city of Antwerp got its name from a legendary giant, Antigoon, who lived near the banks of the Scheldt River. He caused great distress to the residents of the city by extracting a toll for crossing the river. For those who revolted, he cut off one of their hands and threw them in the river waters.
Martine van Loock, creator and maker of THE HAND BAG collection, was inspired to create classic handbag designs with a modern twist reminiscent of the beautiful city in which she resides, Antwerp, Belgium. Very literally, the “hand clasp” represents the many hands that were thrown in the river Schedlt by the mythical giant Antigoon – and the result is lovely. Martine says, “THE HAND BAG collection is a slow process and just in its infancy, but it sure has many possibilities.” We agree.
You could say Belgian handbag designer Martine van Loock inherited her love for creating from her grandmother, who was a haute couture dressmaker. When she was a little girl, Martine’s curiosity drew her to learning how to sew…and that she did. With a patient and devoted teacher, Martine began creating. She started by making clothing for her dolls; then moved on to sewing dresses for herself out of all types of fabric, as well as leather. “From her, I inherited my striving for perfectionism and quality,” says Martine of her grandmother.
Years later, she began a course in fashion design and publicity, creating designs that were beautiful and creative, but not wearable. Eventually, she landed a job with a company that sold CAD CAM systems and she was able to travel all over the world, gaining inspiration and experience along the way. Meanwhile, her husband opened a restaurant in the center of Antwerp. Martine quickly realized he needed her help and quit her job. For 10 years, they operated the successful restaurant before selling it. The two decided they needed a change of scenery and moved to Spain, where they spent a decade before heading back home to Antwerp.
Upon their return, Martine enrolled in a shoemaking course, but soon became more attracted to making leather handbags. Taking up study at local schools and participating in private courses from well-known world brands gave her the knowledge she needed to launch her own company, Atelier MVLHC.
Martine van Loock
Atelier MVLHC
Kasteeldreef 41, Schoten 2900
Antwerp, Belgium
Phone number: +32 492762316
Email: atelier.mvlhc@gmail.com
Kyle Hix wasn’t always a small leather goods designer. In fact, he started his journey with leather in the automotive industry creating interiors. But it didn’t take long for him to venture down a different road. Soon Kyle was upholstering motorcycle seats, producing wearable and small leather goods, and building leather furniture. Then in 2005, he created his own leather goods company HIXDESIGN specializing in small leather goods and bags.
Before opening his own retail location in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma, Kyle spent countless hours researching techniques and products, attending industry trade shows, and seeking advice on leatherworkers.net, all the while soaking up industry trade secrets. He also bounced ideas off his long-time friend and mentor Eric Paysnoe of LeatherSeats Prime until he figured out his own practices and methods. “I’ve always strived to find the best of everything, from zippers to thread, as well as finding the best and most efficient way to make products,” says Kyle.
Kyle draws inspiration from all sorts of things like architecture and automobiles. “One line, shape or profile can inspire an entire design,” Kyle says. He enjoys the creative process, receiving direction from a client then sketching an idea and fabricating a tangible product by hand. One such item was commissioned by NBA player George Hill. He wanted a backpack and gave Kyle creative freedom. The result was something George was thrilled with and Kyle was proud of.
“I’m continually pushing myself to make the best products, always taking pride in creating things that are beautiful, functional, hand-stitched, and long-lasting.”
HIXDESIGN
1708 N Gatewood Ave
Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
405.295.5509
www.hixdesignusa.com
Instagram @hixdesign
When founding TCAA member and Idaho saddlemaker Cary Schwarz receives inspiration, occasionally it seems to “come out of thin air.” For his 2018 TCAA saddle, the idea of horses grazing in a field just happened to be his motivation. Schwarz designed a unique carving pattern that represented the field and placed images of horses in the middle of the decorated areas, thus bringing his idea to life. The horses are burned in with a pyrography tool. The cantle back is beautifully filigreed and set with an incredible sterling silver plate.
“I wanted to commemorate the fact that cowboy culture revolves around the horse,” said Schwarz.
The saddle certainly does that. Both the folio cover and keepsake box are reminiscent of the saddle and feature this majestic animal in their design also.
Schwarz uses “A” grade Hermann Oak leather in all of his work.
Cary Schwarz
132 Williams Creek Rd
Salmon, ID
208.756.8383
caryschwarz@gmail.com
www.caryshwarz.com
Like a lot of leather artisans, Cary Schwarz began working leather as a young boy when he was given his first Tandy Leather kit. He soon outgrew those kits and started creating on his own.
In the late 1970s he walked into a holster shop in Twin Falls, ID to apply for a job. “I’ll never forget the day I walked in there to apply for the job. I looked at those people who were making beautiful things out of leather and I couldn’t believe they were being paid to do it. That really planted the seed and I could see that this was something worthwhile pursuing,” said Schwarz.
In the early 1980s he attended a trade school for saddlemaking in Spokane, WA where he learned the basics of building a saddle from Jesse Smith. Soon after, Schwarz opened his own saddle shop and has been polishing his artistic talent and techniques ever since.
Now, Cary Schwarz is one of the most revered saddlemakers in the country and has mentored and taught others in the field all over the world.
Music City Leather’s Tennessee Flag Boot is a beautiful representation of the state’s flag. The three stars represent the three Grand Divisions of the state, East Tennessee, Middle Tennessee, and West Tennessee. The blue circle around the stars represents the unity of the “Grand Divisions.”
Using 4-piece construction, Wes Shugart chose kid and kangaroo leather for the top of the boot creating the delicate stars of the flag. The vamp is made of smooth ostrich. The white side seam is intentional, representing the white stripe in the state’s flag. Beautifully fashioned with impeccable attention to detail, the Tennessee Flag Boot is definitely a wearable work of art. And like Wes says, “When design and form combine with comfort and craftsmanship, pure functional art is created.” Maybe these boots should be placed on the mantel instead?
Growing up on a Georgia cattle farm, Wes Shugart learned the importance of owning a comfortable pair of cowboy boots. His love of footwear and art, along with a personal triumph led him to take up bootmaking himself. He started making boots in 2012 under the mentorship of acclaimed bootmaker Deana McGuffin. Wes also spent some time at Paul Kraus’s bench. Both bootmakers have guided and mentored him immensely.
You can find Wes in his shop in Brentwood, Tennessee just outside of Nashville building custom made, bespoke cowboy boots. He works alone and uses only the finest materials in the industry.
“I’m committed to using only the finest materials, time tested bootmaking techniques and paying attention to details to make sure you get the perfect boot for you,” says Wes.
Wes Shugart
Music City Leather
Brentwood, TN 37027
615.533.4882
musiccityleather@gmail.com
www.musiccityleather.com
Jim Means of Clyde, California has been working his fine motor skills building miniature replications his entire life. He started making miniatures while in grade school and continued building through high school. Using wood and leather, he would make all sorts of things but trucks and motorcycles were his favorite. Jim took a small break from creating miniatures when he was drafted to serve in the US Navy during WWII. His experience in the Navy inspired him to create an exact replica of the ship he was stationed on. Later he was commissioned to create a ship for a commander of the Navy who oversaw ordering and distribution of weapons and warfare. Jim is most noted for his incredibly detailed replications of the famed Wells Fargo stagecoach. Wells Fargo has a rich history of using, owning, guarding, and operating the six-horse stagecoach. They still own and display ten originals in their history museums, thirteen authentic reproductions in their buildings, and a fleet of 17 that roll almost every weekend in parades and events across the nation. The thirteen authentic reproductions on display in Wells Fargo buildings across the nation were sculpted from wood and leather then hand painted by Jim. He created intricate historical pieces like passenger luggage to sit atop the coach and a horse whip in the driver’s seat. You can even find a shotgun where the “shotgun messenger” would have sat and watched for bandits. Oiled leather curtains adorn the replica too. These helped keep dust, wind, and rain out of the stagecoach. Jim Means collaborated with a legendary company, Wells Fargo and became a legend himself. He is known all over the nation and even throughout the world for his remarkable replicas. They are truly legendary!
Jim Means138 Wellington Ave.Clyde, CA 94520P: 925.458.0677F: 925.827.2779
When Bob Hickman of Hickman Saddlery in Post Falls, Idaho, received a call about building a Bohlin San Gabriel Parade Saddle replica he jumped on board, and boy, did he ever outdo himself. The Hickman San Gabriel Parade Saddle was constructed with the finest materials, namely a Bowden tree, ALD leather and well over 20 pounds of sterling silver. This beauty boasts a stunning Sheridan-style tooling pattern by Chad McKarcher and is adorned with 239 sterling silver conchos featuring bison, eagles, bronc riders, steers and horses, all iconic western symbols. The swell cover is .96-ounce solid sterling silver and the cantle back is .999-ounce sterling silver. The tapaderos are a whopping 24 inches in length. There were approximately 500 hours of work on the silver alone. Matt Redd used 12,800 strands of yarn to make the custom Corona pad and also assisted with assembling the saddle. Of course, Bob Hickman contributed to all aspects of the saddle – from start to finish – and ended up with $50,000 in his pocket and one ecstatic client. In fact, the happy recipient received the saddle on a Wednesday and ordered another one the very next day. Nostalgia and impeccable execution make for an exquisite show piece.
Bob Hickman was born and raised in Colfax, Washington, on a cattle ranch. He enjoyed this lifestyle and wanted to be a rancher when he grew up. At the age of 12, his mother purchased him a Tandy Leather kit. He tinkered with leather, building wallets and belts, the usual entry level items. He found he had a knack for it and it seemed that working with leather was his destiny, even though he had dreams of being a rancher. After high school, he was able to work in the leather industry, while getting a degree in agricultural production, a degree that would benefit his family’s ranch. When Bob returned home, he found there wasn’t room for him at the ranch, so he decided to attend a saddle-making school in Spokane, Washington. In 1983, Bob opened his own shop in an old chicken coop. He now has a store in Post Falls, Idaho, and Calgary, Canada. He and his wife, Tara, live south of Calgary and love living their destiny.
The Proper Gentleman’s Freedom Bifold Collection has everyone standing on their feet. Being a 4th generation combat veteran comes as no surprise that Jimmy Compton, owner and founder of The Proper Gentleman, was inspired by Old Glory when designing this collection. Each piece is hand tooled into Hermann Oak 4/5 oz. veg tan leather and meticulously hand painted with Eco-Flo Cova Color paint. Jimmy then adds depth to each piece with an airbrush. The interior is constructed using 2/3 oz veg tan leather. Suede pig skin trims the cover which is hand stitched with Ritza tiger thread. The brogue hole pattern, that doubles as the fold relief, is an original design element inspired by high end handmade shoes. The dump pockets allow for easy storage and clean out. The Proper Gentleman logo and stamp of approval, which is Jimmy’s father’s handwriting, goes on each item before it is sent to its new home.
On a chillly day in 2015, Jimmy Compton spoke with his wife Christina about a custom made wallet he’d like to purchase. Her answer was, “No, you can’t buy that!” The reason for her answer was the price tag attached to that custom made wallet. Jimmy decided right then to make one himself. That was four years ago this coming January and now we have The Proper Gentleman, a small carry goods and ultra-cool logo wear brand.
Jimmy Compton, US Army Veteran and founder of The Proper Gentleman is a self-taught leather craftsman from Fort Worth, Texas. Jimmy joined the US Army in January 1995 and served on active duty until January 2004. He did one tour in Iraq on active duty then later went back as a security contractor where he did 2 more years in Iraq and 2 years in Afghanistan.
With nearly no certified training, other than a few informal classes, Jimmy has created a distinct artistic style that is well, simply proper.
www.thepropergentleman.com
